Visiting Zanzibar

Brian Ratajczak
4 min readFeb 10, 2024
Our dhow anchored off a sandbank

When visiting Zanzibar — which was the conclusion to our Kilimanjaro and safari Tanzania trip — I’d recommend two days in Stone Town, and however much additional time you’d like visiting other parts of the island. Our trip was 4 days / 4 nights, with 2 nights in Stone Town, and 2 nights in an Airbnb near beachy Paje known for kitesurfing. This post focuses on constructing an itinerary for your time in Stone Town.

Sail the crystal clear waters in a dhow boat

The pristine and secluded natural beauty off the coast of Zanzibar harken picturesque tropical island screensavers, and feel entirely different from the beaches on the main islands. A day trip on a dhow includes swimming in mangrove coves, snorkeling in coral reefs, storming sandbanks that you’ll have to yourself, and feeling the winds from a traditional dhow sailing experience (these boats sailed all the way to India during the days of the spice trade). Experiencing the crystal clear waters and white sandbanks was a highlight. We had a group of nine, so we rented a private boat for the day, but if you’re a smaller group, there are several public options.

Swimming amongst the mangroves

Stroll along the beach at sunset

Of course it’s fitting to be on the beach when on an island, but what I enjoyed about the beaches of Zanzibar, is they also make for great urban people watching — as the locals come out here as well, and in a much more peaceful environment than on some of the streets. You can go for a stroll along the waters — enjoying the soft sand on your bare feet — and find a spot that resonates with you to post up. For me, this was when I saw a group playing a competitive and rambunctious game of soccer (football). Of course, once it starts to get darker out, be sure that you are aware of your surroundings and avoid less populated areas.

Sunset soccer game

Wander through Stone Town

While you can take a day trip to Prison Island, there’s plenty to see and enjoy walking around the UNESCO designated Stone Town (it’s because of this designation why they apparently can’t put the water and electricity lines underground). If you want a guided tour and to learn more about the history (Zanzibar was an independent nation until merging with Tanganyika to form Tanzania in 1964) you can opt for a private walking tour, which our hotel arranged for us. That said, the winding streets are easy and fun to wander, especially if you do so with no set destination. Some spots you may encounter are Sunset Jump Spot (watching locals jumping into the water), the Night Food Market (also nice to visit during the day), Hurumzi / Gizenga Street (which I will warn you, truly feels like hell to walk down given how much everyone is trying to sell to you, but do have some unique items for purchase), the Freddie Mercury Museum, any of several mosques (99% of population is Muslim), and a bit further afield, the Spice Community Shop.

Daytime at Night Market

Take in the views at Emerson Spice Rooftop Tea House

Overall, we did not find the food in Zanzibar to be a highlight, but Emerson Spice was an exception, not just for its food but also the service and views (Lakuman, on a very different end of the spectrum, was also a solid spot if you want to dine alongside the locals — and cats). When you enter the Emerson Spice hotel, you get a feel for the beautiful British-style buildings, and when you make it to the rooftop, you get to take in the colorful skyline view. There is only one seating per night (optimized around sunset), so if you want to include this in your itinerary, be sure to make a reservation.

Rooftop vantage

Perhaps the most valuable suggestion I can give for anyone about to find themselves in Tanzania (or Kenya for that matter), is to start immersing yourself in the pure joy and delight that is Janbo Bwana. This song has many varieties, the first of which we learned from our guides on Kilimanjaro, and throughout our few weeks in the country, we found several folks (from or dhow boat captains to safari drivers) who happily sang along with us, once we started with “Janbo … Janbo Bwana.” It’s contagious in the best way possible, and bound to put a smile on your face. Hakuna Matata!

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