36 Hours in La Paz Bolivia
We found ourselves in La Paz as an addendum to the reason for our trip to Bolivia: the Uyuni Salt Flats. Just like Machu Picchu and Galapagos, the Andean nations draw us in with their natural wonders. Our time in the city was an emotional roller coaster, as we acclimated to the altitude and choking air quality in South America’s poorest country. That said, by the end of our two days and two nights, the city had grown on me enough to nudge others to find the beauty and life that lies within.
La Paz (The Peace) at 12,000 feet high (one of the few cities where neighborhoods get more expensive as you decline in height) was formerly part of the 15th and 16th century Inca empire, entering the Colombian era when the Spanish arrived in the 1500s. You can feel this history as you witness the intricate cobblestone streets, fading European architecture, and mix of indigenous cultures. Today, the 2.2 million person municipality is the physical seat of Bolivia’s government. Bolivia, with a $40 billion economy, has the largest reserves of lithium (in the salt flats) and is the third largest producer of cocaine (after its neighbors Colombia and Peru).
Overall, the city felt safe and seemed to have a strong urban fabric. Several elements — from the cholitas to the views of Illimani — made the city feel distinct enough to visit in its own right. One to two days felt like a good amount of time to be in La Paz. If you had more time, you could explore day trips like seeing Lake Titicaca or biking along the Death Road (I’ve heard it’s as scary as it sounds). This post focuses on some of our favorite aspects of La Paz.
Appreciate the food scene, kickstarted by the founding chef of Noma
In 2012 the founding chef at Noma — widely considered the world’s best restaurant — wanted to explore opening another restaurant. To choose where, he determined it would be a place that was poor but not too poor, with exceptional biodiversity, and a relatively low crime rate. After considering Bulgaria, Romania, Ghana, Vietnam, and Nepal, he landed on Bolivia.
In 2013 he opened Gutsu and kickstarted a culinary movement in La Paz, with its culinary schools and alumni that have started their own restaurants. In all these restaurants runs a common theme of local ingredients brought together in highly inventive and creative ways. Gutsu is the most regarded of the restaurants, though our favorite was Ali Pacha. For us, we found the shorter menus to work better with our altitude diminished appetites.
Learn about history and culture through a walking tour
We found the local walking tour to be an effective way to see the key highlights with a voiceover on their history and to learn some more about the culture and distinctness of the area from a local. Some of the highlights included learning about the infamous self-run San Pedro Prison and how they export cocaine (it’s now illegal to do a tour inside the prison), the cholitas and the story behind their bowler hats, the beliefs and rituals for Pachamama (which include sacrificing llama fetuses and humans), and the story behind the three flags in front of government buildings (including the Navy flag of a landlocked nation). And of course you will see all the ‘touristic’ highlights: Santiago Church, Witches Market, Government Palace / Plaza Murillo.
One aspect of local culture I never would have learned if not for the walking tour is that cholitas do not like having photos taken of them (they may even throw food at you if you do), since they believe this takes away part of their souls. While foreign, I found this concept beautiful, and was happy I knew to respect it. Red Cap walking tours was the provider we used for our tour.
Get an aerial view of the city from the Gondolas
Under President Evo Morales, Bolivia built out the world’s largest urban cable car system. Initially to connect the higher-altitude, lower-income El Alto neighborhood to La Paz, Mi Teleforico has expanded to 10 lines and 26 stations (with more planned), and has won a Latam Smart City award.
You can either use these for practical transit — their strong safety record bodes well against the taxis which have all removed their seat belts — or for a joyride, even making a full loop around the system. If you are in La Paz on a Thursday or Sunday, consider the red line which will take you over the flea market which occurs on these days.
Walk around a neighborhood
I wouldn’t have recommended this after my first day in La Paz, as I still adjusted to the altitude, hills, terrible air quality, and chaotic roads. That said, there are several neighborhoods that have a different feel (and you can bring a face mask if you’d like to limit harmful air quality). While there are many to choose from, some noteworthy ones include:
- For architecture: Calle Jean, known for its European colonial buildings
- For seeing how locals live: Sopocachi, especially this corner which feels like La Paz’s version of Batman Alley
- For browsing shops: Around Witches Market and the Linares / Sagarnaga intersection
- For unique nature: Valle de Luna (requires admission and a taxi to get here)
While Calle 19 de Julia is a main stretch and certainly worth seeing, the energy here feels more similar to the Times Square of La Paz, or the madness of the streets of Hanoi. La Paz is not as dangerous as cities in Colombia, Brazil, or Ecuador, we were advised not to walk in certain areas after dark, especially since street lighting is not consistent.
Some other things to consider:
- While you’re not required to have a yellow vaccine vaccine for the Uyuni Salt Flats and La Paz, if you visit other cities (or do day trips to Death Road, etc.) this may be required
- Thursdays and Sundays are when there is a flea market (you can take the red line gondola to get an aerial view of this) and when the cholias fight (Lucha Libre style)
- If you are coming for the Uyuni Salt Flats, wet season (where you get the mirror reflections) is only from November to March
- There is a 1-hour direct flight from Uyuni to La Paz; alternatively there is an 8-hour bus
- US citizens must get a visa
